Beauty is not only skin deep

Article #4: TCHAD Quarterly.

Beauty is not only skin deep 

Rhea Mehta, PhD

I've been shopping at natural food stores for years, but always for food. I've proudly passed by the beauty sections, sometimes glancing over, but mostly inadvertently thinking I had that part of my routine covered. I'm a Toxicologist by training, but I failed to consider the potential side effects or 'toxicity' of the products I smothered all over my face, body and hair on a regular basis. Until one day, that is. On this day, curiosity got the best of me. I went to a natural food store specifically to examine the beauty section. I read the ingredients of nearly 100 creams, makeup, fragrances and hair care products, and to my surprise, I was shocked. The labels of most products read 'free of [chemical or irritant]'. Did that mean that other products containing these were harmful? And if so, was I using them? 

Through my training, I had learned and read about these chemicals, but never in the context of beauty. These chemicals are widely used in personal care products, often as synthetic preservatives, like parabens, which are known to extend the product's shelf life and stop microbes from growing in the moist environment of a bathroom. Other chemicals, such as sodium laureth/lauryl sulfates, are used to foam and emulsify greasy substances, while phthalates are used to mix ingredients together and act as stabilizers to retain scent, as in fragrances. Finally, the heavy metal lead, although restricted from cosmetics in Canada, may still be found in colour additives that are used to colour lipsticks. Mainstream companies often load their products with these chemicals to cut costs and save time. 

Natural products are often more effective because they use higher levels of active ingredients and as a result, they do much more good than harm. They are safer alternatives, but they often carry a higher price tag.  Another issue is that most regulatory bodies, such as Health canada and the Food and Drug Administration, have deemed these chemicals as safe and non-threatening despite not actually having enforced safety testing or reviewed the safety of ingredients. Without regulatory pressure, expecting people to increase their awareness and modify their buying habits becomes even harder. 

Independent and academic groups do exist however, and are attempting to take a stand and shed the light on the dangers of mainstream beauty products. For example, the not for profit, Environmental Working Group, created a cosmetic database to rank chemical-loaded cosmetics with known or suspected health risks, such as skin allergies, cancer and sexual development and birth defects. EWG is working hard to call to action on a number of beauty-related health risks, but the debate lingers. Until research can directly connect our everyday exposure to severe health risks, these chemicals will continue to lurk in our beauty products. 

There's still so much the average beauty product consumer doesn't know about her products. According to EWG, the average American woman uses 9-10 beauty products every morning before leaving the house. That number at least quadrupled would amount to the number of chemicals entering your body simply as part of your morning routine. Skin is our largest organ, meaning, whatever we put on our bodies is going to be absorbed and end up on the inside. That in itself should trigger alarm bells. 

My intention isn't to tell you which products to use or which to avoid, simply because there is still so much uncertainty. It is reasonable though to ask that we all be more aware, explore our options and do the necessary deeper digging if we are so inclined. There is a plethora of useful resources, like the EWG, that can help guide you on your path. 

Yes, that day was a turning point for me. It showed me what was possible and prompted further exploration. I continue to use natural products and have even attempted to make them myself. I have realized the positive health implications simply by seeing the way my skin and hair have transformed. I still have much to learn, but just knowing that I'm caring for my body as best as I can is motivation enough to continue on this natural journey.